巴爾幹半島漫步(二)
神聖救不了世俗

Manastir Krušedol

塞爾維亞東正教堂的深邃莫測、薩拉熱窩清真寺宣禮塔傳出的悅耳禱告聲、科索沃的教堂廢墟、克羅地亞天主教堂早上既寧靜且熱鬧……在這兒,宗教是民族身份一大重要元素。神聖的宗教處所逃不過世俗的炮火,默默地見證着長年累月的國仇家恨,無法解救人世苦難。

漫步巴爾幹半島,首次跟東正教相遇。在Novi Sad附近的Fruška Gora,走馬看花的參觀了三家修道院。在Manastir Novo Hopovo,剛碰上禱告時間,站在教堂後,聽着教士頌經,雖然一個字都聽不懂,但很舒服。修院的教堂都是精緻的藝術品,滿牆壁聖像是東正教堂一大特點。聖像那些維持了數百年的姿態和眼神都有點怪怪的,但那難以言喻的奇怪卻反而較天主教堂雕塑更吸引,更惹人思索。

Manastir Novo Hopovo

東正教堂壁畫的聖經故事有些是聞所未聞,教堂命名的聖人也多未曾聽過。這是因為東正教的聖經跟天主教和新教有異,塞爾維亞東正教史跟民族史亦已合二為一,聖人大多是民族英雄。貝爾格萊德的Hram Svetog Save (Temple of Saint Sava)所紀念的便是創立塞爾維亞東正教會的 St.Sava。該教堂由一八九四年開始計劃興建,一九三零年代動工,但工程幾經波折,我去年九月去到時,外面看來宏偉非凡,但內部仍然施工中,這倒沒有影響絡繹不絶的信眾。教堂選址於亦有典故。當年土耳其人揮軍入侵,為打擊塞爾維亞人士氣,竟將St.Sava的屍首起出來燒掉,教堂現在的位置便據說是當時燒屍的地點。

Hram Svetog Save

東正教堂可以說是塞爾維亞人的搖籃。科索沃獨立,最令塞爾維亞心痛的便是失去那兒的東正教堂。我在科索沃Prizren,看見一座東正教堂Church of St. George Runović。門外貼有通告,警告嚴懲破壞者。乖乖問准守門的女警後探頭進去,一股刺鼻的油漆味道撲面而來。原應掛滿聖像的牆壁白得發亮,空空如也。那是一座建於十四世紀的東正教堂,據說收藏了一批十四世紀的聖像文物,但大部份已在二零零四年衝突中被燒毁。

在此行最後一站薩拉熱窩,波斯尼亞內戰後,城內塞族早已所餘無幾。大清早到建於十六世紀的Old Orthodox Church看,遠不如塞爾維亞的教堂般香火鼎盛,在微弱的燈光下細心觀看那些不知經歷了多少歲月的聖像。因為喜歡聖像,臨行前買了數張明信片,有一張是聖母抱聖子像:但那可能也是巴爾幹半島飽經無數劫難的一對母子。

6 thoughts on “巴爾幹半島漫步(二)
神聖救不了世俗

  1. Hi,

    i m planning my backpack trip to Balkan Pennisula in late May, may I seek for some advice from you?

    Looking forward more posts of your trip.

    Cheers,
    Katherine

  2. Hi K,

    I m planning to visit Pristina -Kosovo, how long you think I need to plan? half day?

    My proposed plan
    Day 1/ 1500 arrive Kosovo, night bus 1800 Pristina -> Ulcinj
    Day 2/ 0530 arrive Ulcinj, nite bus to Budva, stay in Budva
    Day 3/ visit Budva, nite bus to Sarajevo
    Day 4/ 0400 arrive Sarajevo,

    Do you know any bus from Sarajevo ->Mostar ->Split? n How long?

    Thanks a lot for your assistance!

    katheirne

  3. Hi, sorry for replying late. For Pristina, half day is enough. I would suggest a visit to Prizren, it is far more interesting.

    I didn’t go to Ulcinj and Budva. I went to Durmintor and Kotor last time. Durmintor is a very beautiful mountain area, but the transportation is quite tricky. I strongly suggest you to go there.

    There are not many overnight buses in the Balkans. I also thought that I could take overnight buses to save cost, but it turned out I only had one overnight bus from Belgrade to Prizren. For instance, I spent a whole day traveling on bus from Prizren to Montenegro. So you better not to plan too many places for your trip. I took train from Mostar to Sarajevo last time, but there are a few buses every day. It is very difficult to find the schedules before the trip, but you could go to the Lonely Planet forum to ask for informations. That forum is very useful!

    Hope that helps.

  4. Thanks K for your reply.
    The information is so helpful.
    One more question, are there any discrimination to asian? and is that safe for single gal travel there?

    Appreciated your answer.
    Thanks thx
    K

  5. I didn’t face any discrimination in my trip, everyone was very friendly, though you might attract some curious look. The only racial incident happened when I was in Kosovo, some laughing youngsters called me “Chink”. That might make one feel uncomfortable, but that’s quite harmless.
    I think the Balkans is rather safe. I agree with other travelers, it is even safer than Western Europe. If you could manage travel alone in France or Italy, there should be no reason to be afraid! Of course, as a rule for all lone travelers (male or female), stay alert and don’t do anything you don’t feel comfortable.

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